TRANSFORMATION

After our rendezvous in Salcedo Village, we headed for Anilao, Batangas via the Southern Luzon Expressway (SLEX) and the Laguna-Batangas expressway or STAR tollway which ends just before the new Batangas City port.

This Saturday, we had a new junior rockskipper joining us, Annina Nakpil. She is a high school swim team member of the Assumption College, raring to dive again after finishing her NAUI junior diver certification course. Accompanying her was her father, Dennis with buddies Ramon Nakpil, Mikko Rabat and I.

One of our more favorite pastimes on the road is recalling our past experiences in diving among other topics. And this was no better time for Annina to hear our fish stories of yesteryears. We recalled the three to four hours travel time it took to reach Anilao’s (Batangas) main dock. The Bauan road leg onwards was not very sympathetic then to visitors and residents alike. The bumpy, rut-filled pavement doubled our travel time. Once in Anilao, several boatmen waited to greet you in unison, hoping we’d choose one of them and their narrow Briggs-and-Stratton-powered bankas for our diving trip.

Early Resorts

The road along the mountainous coast of Mabini was merely cleared soil. Only sparse overloaded public jeeps or tricycles traversed this road, bringing villagers to and from their residences. During the monsoon season, landslides carrying bamboo trees would intermittently cut-off road access. The most prominent of the beach houses that hardly line this route was that of the late Col. Nerio Andolong’s beach property on the cliff of Barrio Bagalangit. Across the cove was the Aqua Tropical Resort, the first dive resort established in Anilao followed by Divemaster’s Seafari Camp. Both of these resorts catered to foreign diver groups mostly from Japan and Europe. At that time there were hardly any local divers then to profit them.

Soon to follow was Dive 7000, beside Andolong’s. A partnership between the late Dr. Tim Sevilla and a pioneer diving consortium called Aquaventure Phils., Inc., Dive 7000 became the forefront in accommodating the Filipino student divers graduates of Aquaventure’s and divers of the U.S. armed forces stationed in Clark Air Force Base, Subic Naval Station and the Joint U.S. Military Assistance Group (JUSMAG) in Quezon City.   

Early Traps

Anilao’s deep and fast moving waters attracted pelagic fishes to scour its fringing shallow reefs for prey. Back then, local fishing towns built fish traps near the shore called “baklad” made of bamboo poles reaching depths of over 100 feet. Small schools of tuna would unknowingly go through its narrow opening then find themselves blocked by a bamboo screen. As the trapped tuna’s frantically swim in circles, the village watchman assigned on the trap’s watch tower would pull a long string which led to a bell near the village, alerting a team to bring in their net. The team would paddle their small banka inside the trap and lay the net halfway around in the inner side, then raise the net on one side towards the other. The panicky tunas would dart out of the water until the net is finally raised to a larger banka. One could see the tuna fins flapping hard furiously swimming out of the banka.

Over time, these baklads succumb to rotting, eventually collapsing underwater and serving as a haven for other reef fishes. Most commonly seen were huge turkey or lion fishes whose majestic dorsal and caudal fins reached over 10” long. The villagers would also lay bamboo fish basket traps or bubo at the bottom, to catch unwary groupers or lapu-lapus and other reef fishes. The same basket traps were littered all along Anilao’s reefs.

Another kind of fish trap was used called payaw. These were floating fish shelters made of nipa or coconut leaves secured on a bamboo float anchored in deep water. The leaves served as a home for thousands of fish fingerlings. At night, fishing boats would move close to the payaw, shine their kerosene powered fishing lights that attracted squid and other pelagic fishes feeding on the fries then catch them with fish hooks and nets.

Of course, there were those who preferred to shortcut their fishing time. Blast, cyanide and “moro-ami” (the practice of smashing coral reefs with large rocks to force fish out) fishing came into practice, too. These forms of destructive fishing caused irreparable damage to Anilao’s atoll and island reefs.

Schools of large surgeon fishes that once guarded the reefs are no longer there to meet visiting divers. Blasted or overturned large table corals, soft coral vases and other corals are lifeless on their bases.

Today, these traps can no longer be found. Commercial fishing is done further outside from Anilao’s adjacent bays. Numerous diving beach resorts now stand along its coastline – from Bauan’s Ligpo Point all around Maiinit Point in Mabini.

Transformation

For decades, Anilao has captured the diving industry’s eye, transforming it into Luzon’s top diving destination. Having been exposed to foreign and growing local divers, most of Anilao’s villages and resort owners have taken steps to protect and enhance its reefs. 

Over the years, the government also shared in Anilao’s conservation activities. Under the

tutelage of the Department of Tourism, the Philippine Commission for Sport Scuba Diving(PCSSD) installed several mooring buoys along Anilao’s dive sites to prevent further reef damage from boat anchors. The main road leading to the mushrooming resorts and adjacent villages are now well paved, no longer muddy and bumpy. The local communities also established the Anilao-Balayan Resort Owners Association to collectively protect their reefs and the flourishing diving industry in their localities, though internal problems forced the association to cease operation. Haribon Foundation also helped form the  Samahang Pangkaunlaran ng San Teodoro (San Teodoro’s  Association for Progress) and the Samamahn ng Mamgingisda para sa Kaunlarang Pangkapaligiran ng Barangay Solo (Fishermen’s Association for the Progressive Environment of Barrio Solo). In 1991, with the help of the Center for Empowerment and Resource Development, they succeeded in establishing marine protected areas in Batangas. During this period, Bantay Dagat (sea guardians) was also created to patrol the shoreline of each municipality and enforce the law on illegal fishers. But due to lack of funds, its mission has been limited.

The effects of such awareness and effort can be seen in the proliferation of reef fishes and flora as well. Dive and Trek, situated along Barrio San Pablo in Bauan was one of the first dive establishments to promote reef conservation and rehabilitation. With the help of the U.P. Marine Science of Bolinao, Pangasinan and diver environmentalist Louie Mencias, they transplanted giant clams in their reef frontage. Fishing directly on the reef was discouraged. Their efforts resulted to the increase in the variety of large and small fishes residing in and around the reef fronting their facility. Most popular, was a school of jacks taking residence in 15 feet deep of water.

Other resorts followed suit in clam seeding, though poachers arrived to take some of the clams.

The Dives

Today, Anilao’s busiest dive spot is Twin Rocks located in front of Planet Dive resort.  The site receives an average of 50 divers per day on a weekend. Vibrant coral formations and seeded giant clams, anchovies, snappers, large sized resident fishes have taken residence in the area and are ever present. Most notable is the school of jacks similar to those found at Dive and Trek’s a few years back. 

Since Annina had already made dives in Twin Rocks, we planned our first dive at Devil’s Point, located south-south west of Maricaban Island.

It was a pleasant 15 minutes boat ride from Planet Dive to Devil’s Point. Other than the Eagles’ Point annex resort at Sepoc Point, there were no other facilities found along this side of the island. Underwater visibility was clear 25 meters without any current. The coral reefs seem intact though they were not as inhabited as the other reefs fronting resort areas. We also noticed several village paddle boats in queue fishing along the area. 

Rockskippers

We ate our lunch on the beach fronting Meryl’s Rock (adjacent to Devil’s Point). Enjoying the balmy weather Annina strolled along the beach and for the first time saw a number of our namesake rockskippers clinging on to rocks in the breaking surf. She was amazed how these fishes manage to survive above water. After an hour of rest, we snorkeled around Meryl’s Rock and observed the same reef state as Devil’s Point.

We boarded our banka, and then proceeded to Arthur’s Rock. Though the visibility that time wasn’t as clear, the underwater reef was vibrant, opposite from the previous sites we saw. Small and large fishes congregated in and around the reef like a weekend sale in a shopping mall although there were tracks of coral degradation fronting nearby residences.

 Preservation

Although Anilao’s communities has acknowledged that the diving industry has provided their villagers work and better income compared to fishing, there is still much work to concern everyone in the preservation and protection of their shoreline. For decades, most of the shallow reefs have been cleared of corals to allow bangkas to land.  Waste discharges have suffocated corals, killing living polyps and replacing them with slimy, reddish-brown algae.  Ligpo Island for one has not been spared. The lack of vegetation and freshwater has not stopped someone from building a private house on it. The island’s north reef is dead.

Some resorts and residences too have extended their structures onto once beautiful rocky point formations, natural

hot springs and public beach frontages.

Priority should be given in preserving and taking care of the environment over profit. Bauan and Mabini’s natural treasures are not limitless, nor can altered land or seascape be brought back to its original state. It is imperative that consistent communal action be taken to save whatever is left and remedy the mistakes that have been made in order to stop further destruction and perhaps enable nature to reclaim destroyed areas.

An effective way of community environmental awareness is by showing the past-and-present state of local resources, its adverse effects, the identification of specific preserves and employing stakeholders to enforce its guardianship may be a key to lessen further land and reef destruction.

Annina with her father - Dennis

It is our hope that Annina and divers of her generation will be the future narrators of Philippine coastal adventures and become environmental guardians.

SUBMERGED TOWNS

One of the most popular panoramic vistas nearest to Manila is located in Tagaytay City, Cavite. Owing much to the view of the 26,000 ha Taal Lake and its active Volcano Island with the backdrop of the Batangas and Laguna sierras, the Taal calderas present the most spectacular view in the country.

Volcanic Activity:
History tells us that Taal’s volcano erupted 41 times since 1595. The Batangas towns of Tanauan, Lipa, Bauan and Taal have literally moved three or five times from their original locations due to the destructive boulders, sand, ash and mud laced with sulfuric acid unleashed by the volcano. Records also described how spectators from hundreds of kilometers away watched Taal volcano throw thunderbolts several kilometers into to the sky, while nearby residents were horrified seeing the destruction it rained upon their land. In 1754 the volcano is even said to have erupted continuously for 6 months. 


Transformation:
Located on the lake’s southwestern shore is the 8.2 km-long

Pansipit River. It’s lake side mouth starts in San Nicolas, passing through Agoncillio then ends in the town of Lemery fronting Balayan Bay, facing the South China Sea. Although surrounded by 37 streams, this lone feeder river is the lake’s primary source of water. Taal Lake also receives an annual average rain fall of 2,026 millimeters a year during the months of June to October.

Pansipit was once wide and deep enough to welcome Spanish galleons – and saltwater flora and fauna. Over the centuries, the multiple volcanic eruptions eventually changed its dimensions transforming what was a bay into a lake. But even as the river narrowed and became shallower, migratory fishes continue to spawn in the lake where most of their fingerlings stay inside, adapting to the fresh water environment. Currently, jacks, snappers, turtles, banded sea snakes, tarpons, smelt, damsel fish, mullets and other species take up residence in the lake together with freshwater fishes endemic to the area. Famous among its fauna are the sardines (tawilis) and the jacks (maliputo).

Other familiar species that retain the names of their saltwater counterparts include turtles (pawikan), large milkfish or (sabalo), eel (igat), and red snapper (maya-maya). Taal has a sea snake (hydrophis semperi) similar to its saltwater counterpart with venom as potent as that of land-dwelling cobras. Although not much can be read about this snake, this species is supposedly found only in Taal’s waters. This snake also has a local relative called the file snake or acrochordus granulatus. One can tell that this snake is not venomous like its neighbor by noticing that its tail is not paddle shaped, and the white bands around its hide are not continuous. A transcript dating to 1754 also indicated the presence of sharks and even alligators in the lake.


The Dive Site:
Of the lake’s 120 kilometers of shoreline, the most popular side is at Talisay, just below the 640m (2,100 ft) Tagaytay ridge. This section is accessible either from the ridge or through the Sambat Star Toll exit. The lake’s average depth is 60-65m and the deepest is 160m.


Although we have made previous dives beside the Volcano Island, this time we decided to dive along the mainland coast. Accustomed to the clear sea water, our new rockskipper team member, Bea L. Nakpil was quite hesitant in plunging into Taal’s fresh water. Intrigued by the book "The Mysteries of Taal" written by Prof. Thomas Hargrove, which describes the numerous dives and discoveries he made along Talisay and Balete, we chose a spot called Balas where the town of Tanauan was supposedly originally located before 1754. Hargrove wrote about finding the town’s submerged ruins along this shoreline.

We chose the Holiday Resort as our base, as well as our beach entry and exit points. The resort had a very minimal but comfortable facility which caters to activities such as camping, line fishing, sailing and trekking in the Volcano Island.

The local people were surprised to see that we were actually going to dive in the lake. Although they knew of the sapao or rock formations present in the lake, they did not seem to know much of its origins. 


Fresh Water Aquaria:
Accustomed to clear waters, some of us were having second thoughts in diving in the lake with very limited visibility. Nevertheless, we proceeded with care, following our dive plan to the letter. Knowing the presence of lush, thick Vallisneria Spiralis and Hudrilla Verticilatas, we snorkeled over them and noticed that they were as tall as the depth where they grew.

After swimming a fifty meters out, we shifted using scuba and started our descent using our float line making sure that everyone was in touching distance and had a hold of our buddy line. We touched bottom at 6m (20 ft) where the lake grass was still present, but not as abundant and tall. After a minute of acclimatizing with the 1.2m (4 ft) visibility we followed our planned compass heading, until we reached a depth of 9m (30 ft). From there we turned left. Due to lack of penetrating sun rays, the vegetation ended at a depth of about 7.6m (25 ft). There were seemingly undisturbed piles of vacant unionaceans or elongated mollusks about 10cm (4”) in length covered with brownish algae. Spongillidae or white branching sponges sprouted at random. Gourami fishes 10-15 cm (4-6") in length thrived along the grassy borders, and were startled by our presence. These fishes are just one of the 52 species recorded.

Visibility improved by 1.8m (6 ft) in the deeper areas. Though we encountered small areas with thermocline and halocline, the water was quite still with no evidence of any current.

The bottom sloped to about 45 degrees starting at depth of 7.6m (25 ft). We could not see beyond 4.6m (15 ft) further below due to the predominant brownish tint. After swimming for 50 minutes at 9m (30 ft) with still a lot of air in our cylinders, we decided to end our dive unfulfilled after not seeing any sign of the sapao. 

Coral:

On a separate day, we made another dive in Balas. We swam in the opposite direction weaving the slope at 9-12m (30 to 40 ft). The water visibility was a little better, allowing a clearer view of the fishes and bottom substrate. Small empty corbicula manila clam like shells littered the bottom with larger clusters of spongillidaes. 






















  After 30mins we swam back and came across an unusual massive outcropping, like uniformly stacked smoothened rocks (turtle shell shaped) about 30 by 20cm (12 x 8 inches) each covered with black brown algae type material. Bea was ecstatic seeing the unusual formation. We decided to slightly chip an inch-wide off the surface, and then noticed a white coloration underneath. The texture was not of cement, but was quite brittle. Although it didn't look like a well-carved wall, its   

shape and uniformity did not seem to resemble a natural formation either.

We further surveyed the surrounding area to see the extent of this formation. We later marked it with our descent line, terminated our dive and took land fixes from our surface float to mark the spot.

A Piece of History: 
Dr. Hargrove mentioned in his book of old church walls in Taal made of hewn coral blocks. Recalling the white coloration and texture of the chipped rock we saw, we could say that our dives were productive. Although it would take an archeologist to confirm our speculation, we strongly feel that what we saw was a part of a ruin from an ash fall, and we are content to leave it at that for the time being. Who knows what else we might discover in the habitats of Taal Lake’s flora and fauna?