FROZEN IN TIME

Pampanga, Olongapo, Zambales, La Union, and Baguio City have always intrigued me since the 70’s when the Vietnam War was at its peak. Not because of the local culture, but because for decades these provinces provided home bases for the United States Armed Forces serving as their logistical support and “R & R” (rest and recreation) areas exclusive to their military personnel, their dependents and civilians under contract. These military bases have a colorful history marking the colonial change of guards in the country. The Clark Air Force Base was established in Angeles, Pampanga in 1919, Subic Naval Base in Olongapo in 1899, U.S. Naval Communication Station in San Miguel, Zambales in 1955, Wallace Air Station in Poro Point, San Fernando, La Union  and Camp John Hay in Baguio City in 1903.

After Mt. Pinatubo's eruption in 1991 the U.S. Armed Forces turned over these bases back to the Philippine government. Since then, they were converted into commercial free port zones and tourist recreation areas. Among the four, San Miguel was not converted into a commercial zone, but is now home to the Philippine Navy’s Education and Training Command. Thus, the area seemed like a place to revisit and see if it looked the same 35 years ago.

 

Scuba diving was our main objective in visiting San Miguel then, specifically Capones Island. Our jump-off point was outside the beach perimeter fence of the Naval Communication Station. 

Recently, on two separate occasions, I traveled with my diving buddies: Mikko, Joey, Peque, Karina, Dennis and my wife Linda then a few years later with my son Matthew and sisters Bobbie, Peachie and Dodie.

CAPONES ISLAND

Capones Island nests about 3 kilometers off the shores of Barangay Pundaquit, 15 minutes south of Barangay San Miguel, Zambales. Northwest of it is a smaller island called Camara Island, named after Antonio de la Camara who in 1884 initiated the plans for the construction of Faro de Punta Capones or Capones Lighthouse. Although Camara Island seems to have another island next to it, a shifting sandbar moved by the

tides and season shows they are actually linked together. Both are in the South China Sea or the recently named the West Philippine Sea.

In 2004, the Environmental Protection of Asia Foundation, Inc. (EPAFI) and the 103rd Squadron and Air Operations Wing of the Philippine Coast Guard Auxiliary, in alliance with the Philippine Coast Guard, signed a Memorandum of Agreement creating a National Marine Environmental Monitoring System throughout the Philippine Archipelago. EPAFI then proposed the formation of a Marine Protected Area covering an area of approximately 6 square nautical miles covering the coastal communities of Barangay San Miguel and Pundaquit. Part of their proposal was to restore Capones Lighthouse into its original design and use it as the headquarters for their projects. Also proposed was for a long-term remediation effort to restore the dwindling fisheries resources in the coral reefs within the proposed areas with the direct participation of the local community. This project is within the vicinity of their turtle hatchery located in San Antonio, Zambales.

BARANGAY PUNDAQUIT

Our old route took as through Barangay San

Miguel where the former U.S. Naval Communication Station was located. This time we followed a satellite map to Pundaquit passing through quaint and pleasant bukid sceneries 10 minutes south of the town proper of San Antonio. We reached the resort-laden shores of Pundaquit around 11:00 AM, made our base at the Canoe Beach Resort where we had direct access to secured parking, gear preparation area, showers, dining, and bangkas (outrigger fitted wooden boat). The resort had several day huts and a common barbecue pit on their beach frontage, behind was a 15-20 meter rectangular swimming pool surrounded by a row of cabanas on one side and an enclosed dining area on the other. The beachhead had coarse gray sand that rose to about 2-3 meters above sea level, a sign on how high Pundaquit’s surfs can get during the monsoon season (June-September). Clearly not the best months to ride a bangka or go diving there.

THE BOAT RIDE

The bangkas are smaller than the ones in Anilao, Batangas. They are equipped with single stroke engines, paddles, no sunshades, no ladders and can only accommodate four passengers comfortably with beach gear or two divers with gear. Since we were five, one of us had to sit beside the boat operator.

After a 5 minute boat ride we landed on the east side of Camara’s larger island. Although it was a bit breezy and slight swells were present, the water was quite calm on this side without any current. As we entered the water, the visibility was astounding, quite bluish and about 50+ meters clear in all directions. Sargassum type weeds were abundant near the shore. Skin diving north towards the smaller island strewn rocks with scare corals or fishes was evidence of decades of illegal fishing. 

We wanted to dive on the west side, but the afternoon surge prevented us from doing so.  After enjoying white sand beach and the warm weather we headed back to the resort.

Watching the sunset with loved ones is always the best part in ending the day’s fun moments.

SCUBA DIVING

A few years back, we dove at the northwest point of Capones Island. Although it was a bit breezy and slight swells were present, the water was quite calm without any current. As we entered the water, the visibility was astounding, quite bluish and about 50+ meters clear in all directions. You could literally see the eye of other divers that far. This condition reminded me of the same visibility we experienced decades ago. The terrain started sloping 60 degrees at 15 meters down to about 50 meters before tapering to 30 degrees.

Although the corals were intact, algae growth have covered most of the reef and we didn’t see abundant (schools) reef or pelagic fishes big or small. The biggest were about the size of the palm of a hand and quickly hid among the corals.

We later took our lunch on the south side of the island. There was a small patch of white sand on the beachhead where we ate and recalled past dive experiences. 

       

We made our second dive in the southwest end of Capones Island. The visibility was still spectacular. The coralscape was a bit different, like hills sloping into the deep. However, we still could not find any schools of fish.

We asked our boatman why there were no large or schools of fishes in the area. He explained that cyanide fishing has been practiced in the area for decades. Recalling the dives we made there decades ago, there seemed to have been a bit more fishes then, but were not that much either. The clear water and continuous illegal fishing may have spooked the fishes searching for a deeper and safer haven.

FARO DE PUNTA CAPONES

Other than its beautiful landscape, the Capones Lighthouse is a special attraction of the island. We trekked up the crumbling stairway wherein its last flight, one could see a spectacular view of the Zambales coastline. Further up we found dry grassy knolls with patches of wind blown trees surviving the harsh environment. The partially restored brick lighthouse, part of the Spaniard’s legacy from the 1800’s, stands at the highest point of the island. Standing 53 meters above sea level, its beacon serves as an important navigational tool for ships sailing from Manila and Subic Bay to China. The original light mechanisms were imported from France while local building materials such as molave, narra, tindalo, and other materials were brought in using balsas from the mainland. The red clay bricks used in the main structures were manufactured on the island. The entire construction took six years to complete and become operational.  The Lighthouse is now powered by solar cells, which runs a meteor burst radio transmission system notifying the Coast Guard whenever there’s a malfunction in any of its lights or lenses.After a few photo ops and more viewing we started our descent ending our days exploration.

OTHER ACTIVITIES AND POINTS OF INTERESTS

We motored back to the main land feeling refreshed by the natural and historical beauty of Capones.

Pundaquit has a lot more activities to offer.

Capones and Camara Islands are beautiful campsites and still have fairly good diving areas with many more sites left to explore. The islands are a just a few places to enjoy breath-taking treks. There’s Pundaquit’s waterfalls and the mountain peak located towards the south end of the resort lane. The waterfalls can be found by walking along the riverbed from the shore to about 100 meters upstream. It is best seen during the monsoon season where stronger water cascades down the mini-river creating several pools. And during that same season, Pundaquit’s surfs are there to greet surfers. Pundaquits peak offers a challenge to both novice and avid climbers where spectacular panoramic views of the China Sea and the

northern & southern coastal towns of Zambales. 25 minutes boat ride away is Annawangin Cove whose white sand beach are lined with indigenous pine trees an ideallic place for camping and trekking along its river feeder. 


Revisiting Capones was quite an enjoyable experience. Modernity has started to mushroom in the vicinities providing better amenities to its visitors increasing the toll in Pundaquit’s environment with so much trash in its beach as well as in the islands. That said, the islands itself seem to have been frozen in time giving her guests a chance to feel nature’s beauty at its best.