It was taxing to grow up in a
conservative Catholic family, with the compulsion to follow the traditional 2-hour
long Sunday mass in Latin, holy days of obligation, the fasting and abstinence
rigeur. Despite our youthful resistance,
our parents spared no effort to ingrain in us a strong faith in Christ by
enrolling us in Catholic learning institutions and exposing us to the annual
traditional feasts.
Our parents working
relationship with the church may have also encouraged us to remain in Christ’s
fold. My father, Arch. Carlos A. Santos-Viola, was a lay minister; the designer
of schools and churches for the Order of the Friars Minor as well as many of
the early Iglesia Ni Cristo’s chapels. He was a devout Catholic up to his last
days. My mother, Caridad Nakpil, lived
up to her given name. She too was just as committed serving our parish church
by sewing its vestments and altar cloths, volunteered on weekends in
distributing medicine to the indigents, among other charitable deeds. She also
managed the adornment of the carrosa
(carriage) of Our Lady of Lourdes every February 11.
The most somber of the Holy
days is the Semana Santa (Mahal na
Araw or Holy Week). Owed much to our Spanish colonizers, the Philippines
celebrate this week every year as the summer season begins. Where Ash Wednesday marks the first of forty
days of Lenten preparation for Easter, the Semana
Santa which commemorates the Passion of Christ takes up the last seven days
before Easter: Palm Sunday to Holy Saturday.
There are
three significant events in the Holy Week celebrated three days before Easter
Sunday. These last three days of prayer are called the Easter Triduum. The Triduum begins on Thursday
Evening with the Last Supper, where Friday actually began according to Jewish
tradition. After that is Good Friday when Christ was scourged, nailed and died
on the cross, and Holy Saturday when the Easter Vigil starts in the evening up
to the break of dawn.
It was during
the Last Supper when Christ gave a new commandment to His disciples: “That you love one another, as I have loved
you.” (John 13:34) It was also in this occasion when He instituted the Holy Eucharist (thanksgiving) or Holy
Communion now celebrated during the Holy Mass.
Other than
fasting and abstinence, prayer and almsgiving, Christians elsewhere observe
Maundy Thursday in various ways. In Rome, they hold ceremonies consecrating the
holy oils, the reconciliation of penitents, the washing of the feet, and the
commemoration of the Holy Eucharist.
Although
most of these are also practiced in the Philippines, the faithful also follow La Visita
Iglesia, or the church visitation. Here, the devotees visit seven churches
in their vicinity at night in association with the seven wounds of Jesus: five
from the Stigmata, one for the scourging and the shoulder wound from carrying
the cross. The more diligent devotees opt to visit fourteen churches, one for
each Stations of the Cross.
Our country
is endowed with beautifully constructed churches dating back to the arrival of
the Spaniards. The urban planners of the
day constructed the church in the center of town adjacent to the local seat of
government , to ensure that the flock gave Caesar (or in our case the
Governor-General) and to God.
Today, Visita Iglesia followers travel outside
their home town, some for faith and others for knowledge.
These were the San Idelfonso Church in Guiguinto, the Barasoain Church in Malolos, the 18th Century St. John the Baptist Church in Calumpit whose façade is decorated with heavy scroll stuccos filled with saints and angels honoring the Good Shepherd, San Agustin Church in Baliwag, the San Isidro Labrador Church built in the late 1700s in Pulilan, and the Church of Quingua in Plaridel, which shared a similar Moorish-inspired façade style as the St. John the Baptist church.
Though we intended to restrict our route within Bulacan, we decided to veer-off in nearby Pampanga to visit two of its churches – the San Pedro de Apostol Church in Apalit, and San Nicloas de Tolentino built in Macabebe in the late 1700s.
Notably most
of these churches were Romanesque in style with a floor plan in the shape of a
Latin cross. Common was an atrium, high ceiling nave, transept, and an apse which
led to or housed the altar. The clerestory windows of the nave, transept, and
apse beautifully illuminate the church interior with natural lighting. An elaborately
decorated pulpit protrudes out near the end of the nave as if reaching out to
the worshipers. The San Pedro de Apostol Church was the only one with two
belfry towers.
In previous
years, we categorized the Metro Manila churches for our Visita Iglesia.
A couple of
years ago, Franck and I decided to visit churches built around a circular
theme. When the Vatican issued a decree in the 60’s ordering a greater lay
participation in the liturgy, the use of a free standing altar was adopted.
Thereon, numerous churches were built using unconventional floor plans that was
similarly used in the Early Christian round churches.
These modern
churches included the Parish of the Holy Sacrifice in the University of the Philippines,
Santa Maria de la Strada Church beside Miriam College on Katipunan Avenue, the Church
of Gesu on the grounds of Ateneo de Manila University, Christ the King Church
in Green Meadows, St. Andrew’s Church in Bel Air (Makati), Sto. Nino de Paz Chapel
in Greenbelt, and the San Alphonsus Mary
di Liguori Church in Magallanes Village.
In previous
years we visited historical or old churches such as the San Agustin Church and
the Manila Cathedral in Intramuros, San Sebastian Basilica in Legarda, Abbey of
Our Lady of Monstserrat or San Beda Chapel in Mendiola, Our Lady of Remedios or
Malate Church, St. Peter and Paul Church in P. Burgos (Makati), the Nuestra
Senora de Gracia Church in Guadalupe, to name a few.
Visita Iglesia is an act of penitence
through traveling from one church to another, praying in each pew. There are
those who opt to walk the distance from one church to another. Visita
Iglesia is also an opportunity to behold the authenticity of unique architecture,
old or new, in a country obsessed with building the same massive condo towers
and malls.
The sight
of these beautiful places of worship brings back to life the church’s significant
role in a town or village. One could hear the bells toll for the dead, calling the
townspeople to worship or pray the Angelus. It’s simplistic but overpowering façade
humbly welcoming both the faithful and negligent to enter the dwelling-house
and seeking refuge. Its triumphant nave comes alive with glimpses of the bible lifting
the hearts and mind of the worshippers towards the altar. The pulpits resounding
the bible readings and sermons admonishing the sinful and righteous. The
baptisms, weddings, and other ceremonies affirming the townsfolk were blessed
and remain close to God.
Visiting
these churches truly nourishes one’s faith knowing that over the centuries they
fell victims of the ravages of time, but were rebuilt again and again by their
devotees. My parents surely experienced such a similar test, yet remained
faithful to the Word. The longevity of the church is a true testament to the
steadfast love of our Lord Jesus Christ to all who believe in Him and His
institution will remain the center of divine worship.
