COLORS OF OMAN

I’ve always been a bit anxious to travel to someplace unfamiliar, even more so if this destination happens to be in a part of the world not frequently visited compared to their more rapidly-developing neighbors.

Much to my surprise, the landscape of the Sultanate of Oman was truly one of a kind, endowed with jagged jabals (mountains) with desolate wadis (valleys) that would surely fascinate geologists and rock climbers of any category.

The land and the sea within 

Bordered on the north by the United Arab Emirates, on the northwest by Saudi Arabia, and on the southwest by the Republic of Yemen, Oman is lined with bare rocky mountain ranges, riverbed-like valleys, and arid highlands. Small farm villages dot the valleys and mountain slopes with aini or spring water running through mini-irrigation canals giving life to palm date trees, grapes, pomegranate, lime, banana, garlic, onions, beans, among other vegetables. Goats and donkeys linger around the rocky hills and a few camels in the valleys. 

The Omani coastline stretches over 3,000 km long earning its seafaring communities a place in the history of the Arabian maritime trade. On its northern tip lies the Musandam Peninsula overlooking the Arabian Gulf and the Sea of Oman. A natural strategic location, Oman has had a controlling advantage of the 35-mile-wide Strait of Hormuz, a gateway to all ships coming from the Indian Ocean and Arabian Sea. The Sea of Oman continues to provide abundant seafood to the country as seen in their fish market where large and small fresh tuna, king mackerel, jacks, sail fish, sardines, and wild prawns dominate the daily catch over all other reef fishes.

Oman’s climate is generally hot and humid along the coast. This weather gets drier further inland, while summer monsoons usually affect the southern region of Salalah. 

Protection from the sun’s heat, the traditional attire for men is called dishdasha,  a long sleeved ankle length white robe with head gear and leather slip-ons. The female wears a sirwal, a floor length black long sleeved dress with a lihaf head scarf. The black color was introduced from Iran, replacing the more colorful dresses in the urban areas. However, the rural villagers still wear their traditional colors.

It was only in 1970 when Sultan Qaboos bin Sa’id initiated the modernization of Oman, transforming dirt roads into two lane high-grade carriageways (highways) cutting through mountains and valleys, expanded their electrification system, built a larger airport that was once an asphalted runway on a river bed, upgraded its sea ports, and other utility services. These changes came slowly and cautiously as to prevent the loss of its cultural heritage and much of its natural treasures.

55% of its 3 million population lives in its capital, Muscat and the Batinah coastal plain northwest of the capital.  About 600,000 of these are guest workers from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Egypt, Jordan, as well as our own OFWs. Arabs, Baluchis, Zanzabaris (East Africa), Indians, Pakistanis & Bangladesh compose the Sultanate’s ethnic groups practicing Ibadhi (Omani version of Islam), Sunni or Shia Islam, Hinduism or Christianity.

India’s particularly long trading history with Oman meant Indian Rupee was once used as currency prior to the introduction of the Omani Rial.

Muscat

Once a walled city, the Portuguese colonists transformed Muscat as a base.  Stone and mud watch towers built on the surrounding mountains augmented its natural fortifications  On its northern side, a cove faces the Gulf of Oman with two fortresses called Mirani & Jalali built on mountain tops at opposite points. Curfews were enforced, as the main gate to the city closed in the early evening and opened again at sunrise.  Other than the two fortresses, today the walls no longer exist replaced with a symbolic modern road archway housing a museum showcasing its history.  A modern Sultan’s Palace and other ministerial offices are now standing in this area, called Old Muscat.

The Persians, French and British also set foot in Oman. The latter were the only adventurists who, in a way succeeded by establishing several treaties of friendship and commerce lasting up to the present time.  They provided security to the Monarchy, preventing further tribal uprisings from succeeding. They supported the 1970 palace coup when Sultan Qaboos bin Sa’id over threw his father from power. Finally, the British influence has expanded into their vocabulary, as much of their road signage refers to terms often used in Britain. There are only two radio stations that air western music daily, with male and female DJ’s with British accents.

Oman was not entirely a reclusive nation. It too ventured outside its borders occupying east Africa’s coast, from Mombasa onwards, Zanzibar, and other places in the southern Arabian Peninsula.

Nearby Districts of Muscat

Muttrah

Equivalent to Manila’s port area, Muttrah is Oman’s oldest commercial center. It served as a storage area for goods that were unloaded in old Muscat before being distributed in the interior. Over the centuries, Muttrah grew into a home and business hub for merchants. Today it has also turned into a tourist attraction with its new souq (market), a wide street converted into a marketplace connecting the new and old market areas selling both modern and traditional goods. Store hours in Oman are from 9AM-12PM, and 4-8PM. Store hours are shorter on the Islamic weekend of Thursday and Friday.

On top of the souq’s mountainside stands the Muttrah fort, a historical landmark expressing a mighty force to once-foreign aggressors approaching its port.

A few minutes walk along the granite cornice or seaside walkway is the port of Oman where a small fish market is also located.  Local fishermen drop their early morning catch from nearby reefs. Adjacent  is a vegetable and fruit market  filled with both local and imported harvests including kangkong, bayabas, saluyot, calamansi, and puso ng saging, among others.

Ruwi

Oman’s business center is now located in Ruwi, a valley behind Muttrah’s mountain ridge. Here lies the financial district, Ruwi souq (bargain stores), PC stores, sports shops, car parts & repair, home furnishings, electronic appliances and repair, airline and travel agencies, supermarkets, hotels and numerous businesses drive this area abuzz.  This is also where the one and only Filipino “Palayok” restaurant is located, serving Omans’ growing army of OFWs.

Oman is one the few Arab states that allows worship of other denominations, however none of these denominations may outwardly display their symbols such as crosses. City authorities have allocated places of worship for Christians, which include St. Peter & Paul Church for Roman Catholics and the Bible Center for other Christians. Worship services follow both the Islamic and Christian weekends.

Malls and Hypermarkets

Rich in oil and natural resources, Oman is still an import-dependent nation. Almost all of its food supplies come from neighboring states, East Asia, Africa, and western countries. There are several hypermarkets, the most popular of which are Lulu’s, Khimji’s and Al Fa’ir with stocks as varied as their western counterparts.

The most frequented shopping mall is the French-owned chain Carrefour.  Filled with high-end Western name-brand stores, Oman has two of these malls, the larger one located in Seeb close to the airport.

Land and Seascape

Oman’s brownish gray mountains and white buildings dominate the color of its landscape. Along its roadway developments lie thousands of kilometers of sprinkler systems allowing  grass lawns, palm date trees, and other flowering plants to grow giving Oman a greener and cooler look.  The Sea of Oman’s deep blue horizon contrasts with the landscape with its turquoise coves and glaring beige sandy beaches with limestone cliffs.

Southeast Coastline

Driving in Oman is a treat because of its well paved highway system and a good choice of rental vehicles. My road travel companions were from Indonesia, Hong Kong and the Philippines. Our first out of town trip was to the city of Sur- once an old wood boat-building town, 337 kms southeast of Muscat.

Qurayyat                                     

Halfway towards Sur is the popular Wadi Dayqah, a wide river fed by a gigantic dam upstream. Applying the traditional irrigation canal system, the dam feeds sufficient water downstream to small farms along the river bank. Local family barbecue picnics are held under the wadi’s palm date trees, while natural pools serve the more adventurous swimmers. Ruins of old mud houses are found in nearby villages.

In the center of Qurayyat’s town is a small fort which once stood to watch over its territory.  Quite rustic and filled with artifacts, the fort now serves as a reminder of the town’s old traditions.

Wadi (valley)

Another beautiful site is Wadi Ash Shab, a seaside oasis located along the river mouth whose sides are lined with palm date trees and sheer mountain cliffs where the locals enjoy spending their weekend family picnics.

Sur

Sur’s town proper has a hill where the Sunaysilah fort stands. Although it doesn’t seem so large from the inside, the fort still dominates the town’s landscape.

Though not as developed and densely populated as Muscat, Sur’s residential houses and seaside streets are all new, and the town no longer bears the image of a fishing village. 

One of the important itineraries in travelling is a taste of the local dish. A lunch menu such as: maqbous - rice with saffron, Ruhal – platter-sized oven-baked flat bread, fresh vegetable salad with hummus dressing, stewed mutton, and fresh fish in spicy tomato sauce was a delicious treat. One has the option of eating the Omani traditional way: seated on a carpeted floor, with a shared meal served on a single large plate and using your bare fingers to eat.

Turtle Dunes

25 minutes further south is Raz Al Jinz Natural Reserve where thousands of green turtles lay eggs from June up to September. Oman has taken preservation measures in this area by isolating 45 km of coastline and 1 km outwards from poachers and offering regulated guided tours, leaving nature take its course.

 

Inland

Nizwa

Travelling on another day, we set-off 160km northwest of Muscat towards the interior of Oman - the city of Nizwa, its largest province.

In its center stands the Nizwa fort. Built sometime in the late 16^th century, the fort’s tower rises 35 meters high with a circumference of 45 meters. It is the largest fort tower in the Sultanate. 

The tower is a massive sight from afar. Its cannon equipped sentinel provided a 360-degree view of the city. Access to the top is only by means of a narrow, zigzagged staircase barred by a heavy wooden door studded with metal spikes. Its stairway has false flats built with traps pits with sharp metal stakes to ensnare the enemy or impede their way to the top of the tower. 

Those who did manage to escape these hurdles risked being shot or burnt by boiling date syrup poured through shafts directly above each set of doors.

The fort has a deep well, food supply and ammunition storage rooms to last its occupants for a long siege.

Outside the fort is a more modern souq where one can shop for local clay potteries, antiques including authentic tribal rifles, bullets and kanjar (curved daggers), silver bangles, rings, incense burners, fruits, vegetables and fish. Alongside rests the remnant mud walls of the old souq, a reminder of the past settlers doing business outside the fort.

Although we had lunch in a local Pizza Hut, their large calzone with chicken or meatballs had a distinct Omani flavor.

 

 

 Jabal (Mountain) 

 Bahla

After a hearty meal, we headed for Jabal Al-Shams, famous for its mountain view similar to the Grand Canyon. Missing a turn and came across a small town called Bahla, whose own fort stood beside the main highway. Currently being reconstructed, UNESCO lists this fort as a national heritage site. Remnants of the original mud and stone riverbank walls still stand, adding a more rustic look to the fort’s surroundings. 

 

Al Hamra

After 40 mins of search for the right turn-off we headed back towards Nizwa and finally found the Al Hamra T-junction to Jabal Al-Shams. The winding foothills had groups of houses that emerge every two kilometers. These settlements also had bare-dirt football fields where groups of boys can be found playing the game.

We stopped to see a village built of stone walls perched on a mountain side opposite the roadway. A spectacular view.
We drove down the loose gravel road and crossed the dry riverbed towards the village. On its foot lies a small green farm patch fully irrigated. A rocky foot path leads up to the stone village. Though empty, most of the house walls, doorways, windows and remnants of its near collapsed wood, palm leaf and mud roof stood still frozen in time. As you walk through the rooms and the main pathway, you can’t help but imagine the activities that transpired in them.

 Not wanting to leave, we decided to move on and drove back to the main road further up the mountains. After half an hours drive, the well asphalted road ended. Without any road signs pointing to our destination, we cruised along the winding road with ravines with outgrowth of shrubs and other plants.

 

 

Reaching a higher altitude, we saw from across the cliff a green terraced area similar to our rice terraces, but just a speck against the bare mountain side. We did not check it out and drove further up. Cement road finally reappeared and after a few kilometers we reached what seemed to be the summit. Spectacular it was barren mountains, deep gorges and clear skies all around. After an hour or so we decided to turn back to Nizwa. The peak had smooth, flat volcanic like boulders with littered shrub out growth on the lower plateaus and a few campers pitched tents alongside the sparse leaf shade.

We reached Nizwa just before sundown, went around its souq then headed back to Muscat.

 Diving in Sea of Oman

Dimaniyat Islands

The most popular scuba diving site in the Sultanate is the Dimaniyat group of Islands. Located northwest off Muscat shores; the islands can be reached via speed boat. I joined a regular dive excursion organized by Global Dive Shop operating beside the Muscat International Airport. We boarded a Yamaha work boat type speed boat powered by twin 150HP Yamaha outboard engines. After 45 mins of travel time we reached the Dimaniyat and anchored north of the Police Island. The Dimaniyat islands are a protected area, off limits to commercial fishing, but open to sport fishing. From April to September it is prohibited to land on the islands due to the nesting season of the shore birds. The island didn’t have any sign of trees.

We dove off its northern side.  The water was still, temperature was comfortable and visibility was 10m across. The reef was intact with plentiful reef fishes. However, the dominant colors were brown and yellow, the latter from the schools of yellow grant fish that hovered all over place. A one of a kind pastel blue coral polyp colonies added accent to Dimaniyat’s reef.

While enjoying the balmy weather on board, we ate fresh salad, sandwiches and fruit juice for lunch.

After an hours rest, we transferred our anchor on the south side of the same island. The water condition was the same as in our first dive. This time we saw a 5-foot leopard shark resting with a resident remora cleaner fish, a pair of large cuttlefishes mating, a full grown spiny green lobster, fully grown honeycomb moray eels, flat fishes, and other reef fishes. Abundant again were schools of yellow grants and the blue coral polyp colonies.

We finished diving around 1:30PM then headed back to Muscat.

Sinkhole 

Oman has surprising unique seaside attractions. One of which is the Bamah “Sinkhole”.  Located before reaching Sur, this natural site is about 300 meters from shore, whose hole is about 50m in diameter and 30m deep, 2/3 filled with turquoise seawater coming from a natural tunnel connected to the sea. Wading in the water provides some foot relief with tiny fishes nipping the dead skin off your feet.

Snorkeling on the deeper end, one can find fresh water guppies thriving along the 1-2 feet deep edges of the water where small soft purple and yellow sponges also grow.  The presence of these fresh water fish may be due to the inability of the sink hole to fully drain during low tide accumulating fresh water from decades of rainfall.

The Bamah Sinkhole is a protected site secured in a park with minimal facilities for camping and picnics.

Kalbooh Cove

Intrigued by the abundant catch in Muttrah’s fish market and clear water off the port, we decided to go snorkeling in the cove beside Kalbooh Park. Located between Muttrah and Old Muscat, Kalbooh cove offers beachcombers, swimmers and snorkelers’ an easy encounter with Oman’s marine life.  The occasional flock of shorebirds likes to swoop down on unwary fish fingerlings, and green parrots feed on nearby palm date trees. A variety of mollusk shells (dominated by olive shells) lay on shore, while the clean and clear water is teeming with marine fauna: deep electric blue surgeon fish with orange tails, orange lemon fish, parrot fish, juvenile jack fish, pompano, goat fish, striped and silver damsels, cuttle fish, yellow grants, stingrays, flat fish, occasional manta and barracudas, sabalo, and lots of banaks and dalagang bukid.

The longer sides of the original cove had been reclaimed to accommodate a wider roadway from Muttrah to Old Muscat and a public park was constructed on the opposite side. A local diver recalled how these developments destroyed the coral reefs that once resided under them. However, the cove’s sea walls were then reinforced with cement “jack stone” breakers providing a new home for fishes to breed and good anchorage for new corals.

Yiti and Sifah Beach

10 minutes from Muscat is a small fishing village of Yiti. On weekends, Omani women with their colorful sirwal gather outside a neighbors house for their friendly chats.

15 minutes past the village of Yiti is Sifah Beach,  a future site for a five star hotel in competition with Shangri-la Resort. Often visited by local weekend tourists, this stretch of light sandy beach offers everyone a guaranteed relaxing treat.

The drive alone a scenic mountain route, passing by several intertidal coves, adds pleasure to the journey to Sifah.

Seeing Sifah’s clear azure waters is an irresistible call for snorkeling. Although the intertidal and shallow reef is basically composed of mineral ore rocks and dead corals, still thrives Oman’s marine treasures: marble groupers, goat fish, green turtles and eagle rays.

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

10 minutes North of the city sprawls the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in a 46 hectare land. Constructed in 1995, the Grand Mosque is built of 300,000 tons of Indian Sandstone. The Mosque took 6 years to complete.  The musalla or main prayer hall's carpet took four years to complete. It is said to be the second largest single piece carpet in the world hand made by an Iranian carpet company.

Hanging from the center dome is a 14 meter tall Swarovski glass chandelier manufactured by Faustig of Germany. The combined prayer areas can accommodate  20,000 worshipers at one time.

Responsible Tourism

Although there’s still much room for environmental considerations, the Sultanate of Oman has placed a high value on preserving its national heritage thus using a development platform of responsible tourism. Its tourism infrastructure is one its major investments knowing that the rest of the world especially those who appreciate adventure with history will be listing Oman on top of their travel itinerary.

 Numerous local tour operators offer different activities such as: desert dune or island campouts, dolphin or turtle watch, scuba and skin diving, 4x4 driving, cave tours and other adventure activities complete with catered buffet meals or scheduled meal stops.  Car rental companies are easily accessible with affordable sedans, AUV’s, 4x4’s and light pick-up trucks to choose from. Note: museums are close on weekends (Thursdays & Fridays).

 Of course, nothing beats venturing on your own with a rented 4WD vehicle not pressed for time enjoying more of Oman’s exciting back roads filled with surprises. As always, ending a day’s tour in the Sultanate leaves you more anxious wanting to see and know more about its colorful heritage.